July 25, 2009 – Milwaukee, a beer city
Milwaukee, home to Miller Brewing and a number of quality craft breweries, is a great destination for a brewing vacation. The city, if you have never visited, is has a history that is expressed in all of its architecture. You’ll see the old and the new side by side, beautiful churches, stately hotels and manors, attractive stone work, inspiring high rises, but enough greenery to make this city feel small and comfortable. With a university downtown, the city is very pedestrian friendly and has a nightlife that is hard to beat.
An abbreviated list of breweries in the city include: Miller Brewing, Lakefront Brewery, Water Street Brewery, Stonefly Brewing Company.
Water Street brewery produces beer that is sold throughout the city. I had the chance to try their Water Street Weiss, Water Street Pale, and Maibock; all great beers that I would recommend. Water street offers tours of their small-scale brewery during Monday through Friday. Though I missed the opportunity to take the tour, I understand the brewmaster personally gives the tour and takes you through the whole process, all up close and personal.
A patron of the historic Astor bar and Grill highly recommended the Lakefront brewery tasting tour. The tour offers tasting sessions that include bottomless samples from their entire offering and end with an optional fish fry.
Miller brewing also gives a tour, a tour tailored for the beer drinker, not the homebrewer. The tour focuses on the bottling, packaging, and shipping stages of production. A brewhouse tour is available but seems to have been added as an afterthought–it only lasts about 10 minutes including the time to walk up the 56 steps to their mash and lauter tuns. Miller only educates their brewhouse tour guides with the most cursory information about their brewing process. They didn’t know which hop varieties were used, the mash temperature, or even how many pounds of grain are used to fill the mash tun. All they knew for sure was the Miller yeast is top secret and is used in the brewing of all Miller beers. The guide didn’t have a clue what specific gravity was but that didn’t stop him from using the term incorrectly throughout his presentation. For a homebrewer, there are more interesting ways to spend two hours.
If you visit the city, be sure to stop by Louise’s after dark for a bite to eat. Their Stromboli, accompanied by a tall glass of Water Street Weiss, was just fantastic. I had to actually put down my fork and just appreciate a dish that just hit the spot so well.
During my weekend visit, there was so much going on in the city, that I was never in want. Every Thursday night from June through September, there is live jazz music in Cathedral Park. I managed to also catch an air show at Veteran’s Park on the shore of Lake Michigan; it was amazing to hear the roar and rumble of jets flying overhead throughout the city. To top off the weekend, the city held its annual German fest. What a visit!
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